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Robert Louis Stevenson finds himself at La Bastide Puylaurent between Ardèche and Lozère on the banks of the Allier, before going up the Moure de la Gardille towards Chasseradès via the current Stevenson path, the GR®70. |
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Robert Louis Stevenson finds himself at La Bastide Puylaurent between Ardèche and Lozère on the banks of the Allier, before going up the Moure de la Gardille towards Chasseradès via the current Stevenson path, the GR®70. |
La Bastide-Puylaurent, a commune in the Lozère department in southern France, is home to only two hundred inhabitants. Despite its small size, the village boasts two small grocery stores. Whenever possible, locals rush to buy “patouilles” for their beloved Biscotte. Our daily meals are assured; they will be hearty and delicious.
Philippe, a product of a Greek-Belgian union, is a talented bachelor who adeptly manages the responsibilities he has chosen for himself: running a former hotel that has been transformed into a guesthouse. While the rates may be slightly higher than those of other colleagues, the cleanliness of the premises, the pleasant environment, the warm welcome, and the generous cuisine more than compensate for this detail. Tonight, around the communal dining table, thirty guests express their happiness to be here, each sharing their own story.
On the ground floor, we are the only ones sleeping, and no noise will wake us. Today isn’t truly a stage. The morning is dedicated to rest, while the afternoon is for the primary school children with whom we will journey to Notre Dame des Neiges (where Robert Louis Stevenson himself spent a three-day retreat), punctuating this walk with storytelling breaks.
After a hearty breakfast, we head back to the nearby “town center.” It’s easy; as the song says, just cross the bridge. Then, we take advantage of our respite.
La Bastide-Puylaurent lies at the intersection of several hiking trails: GR®7, GR®72, and GR®70 (Stevenson Trail), as well as the path of the Gorges de l’Allier (GR®700), the Regordane Way, and the Cevenol Trail.
In each room, Philippe has left a large notebook for his guests. You can settle in the park by the Allier River, in the shade, in perfect tranquility, and immerse yourself in this thick document. Learn about the history of the Camisards, Stevenson’s adventures, and our host’s own unique journey. Not to mention the enthusiastic accounts of hikers and numerous route descriptions starting from the village. More and more itinerant hikers return for extended stays in this former 1930s Resort Hotel.
Catherine the marmot sleeps soundly, with Biscotte by her side, while a small iron table holds my indispensable travel journal—without which you would know nothing today about our peculiar adventure.
Last night, we exchanged a few words with our host. At the age of twenty-nine, he left Belgium and settled here in La Bastide-Puylaurent after traveling on foot and horseback for several months through the Cévennes, Massif Central, and even as far as the Vosges.
It took him five years to transform the Parc Hotel into a guesthouse. This tall young man with a generous smile is an idealist, an enthusiast, and a hard worker! He bakes his own bread, introduces you to all kinds of beers (mostly Belgian), welcomes guests by the fireside during the low season, and plays the piano and guitar.
When I asked him if he was the sole proprietor of the guesthouse, he replied, “There’s Mario in the kitchen—that’s me. Maria handles housekeeping—that’s also me…” But he doesn’t hesitate to accommodate up to sixty people, requesting their assistance in clearing tables and doing the dishes. Some find it normal, others find it amusing, and still others take offense.
From September 15th to June 15th, Philippe closes up shop and sets off for the other side of the world. He has initiated a program of exchange between innkeepers, a feat I admire for its consistency and determination.
The morning respite is over. It allowed our blisters to dry, and our spirits are high. I head alone to the nearby school, where I am expected. A local press correspondent has also come for an interview.
That evening, at L’Etoile, I meet a man who is running the GR®7, covering four kilometers every morning in the cool air. In the guesthouses, we encounter all sorts of people, and once again, I marvel at one of my favorite subjects: the fantastic diversity of humanity. Stevenson, whose life philosophy often resonates with me, shares the same enthusiasm.
"How marvelous is adventure! … One never knows what constitutes a life or what brings pleasure to a person: one enjoys drinking, another delights in marriage, yet another writes obscene articles, even if it means being publicly whipped multiple times. And then there’s that other person, perhaps destined to become a pharmacist in Brazil."
To return to our marathon runner, his wife, who also finds her own way to experience events, follows him in the car and picks him up at the end of each stage. In the afternoons, they visit, rest, and swim together. Ultimately, it’s more peaceful than our own journey!
In any case, I acknowledge that the comfortable accommodations offered to us after the storytelling sessions are quite pleasing. Within every adventurer lies the civilized person who isn’t put off for long by a good bed and a good meal. If I were to assign a small logo to each stage summarizing the overall impression it left on us, it would be a flashing red light for the sixth stage. Why on earth did some days seem to drag on forever? How could this one day represent eight hours of effective walking? The mystery of numbers sometimes eludes our understanding, choosing to follow their own whims. But what impresses us is one thing; what it represents is another! In my journal, I won’t have the strength to write much. I also lacked the courage to use the recorder. We must rely on memories.
Yes, a day filled with forest trails and asphalt ribbons—too much to our liking, especially for my left foot, whose tiny blister under the “riquiqui” had only pretended to be asleep. We set off at eight in the morning. By late morning, we’ll reach Chasseradès, and we won’t miss the opportunity to greet and thank Bernard Chaptal at his Hotel-Restaurant “Les Sources”. Excerpt from “Dans les pas de Stevenson” (In Stevenson’s Footsteps). Editions du Fournel, by Flora Berger.
Old romantic Hotel, L'Etoile Guest-House is a mountain retreat in the South of France. With a beautiful park along the Allier River, L'Etoile Guesthouse is located in La Bastide-Puylaurent between Lozere, Ardeche and Cevennes. Hiking trails: GR®70 Stevenson trail, GR®700 Regordane way (St Gilles trail), GR®7, GR®72, GR®470 Allier river trail. Hiking loops: Cevenol, Ardechoise, Margeride. The right place to relax.
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