In the Footsteps of Muleteers

Muleteers at La Bastide-Puylaurent in Lozère

The Regordane Way, which connected Saint-Gilles to La Bastide-Puylaurent, was an essential route in the Middle Ages, linking southern France to the Massif Central. At the heart of this transport network, muleteers embodied the very essence of commercial life.Muleteers were men and women of the land, often from farming families. Their profession required a deep knowledge of mules, these robust animals adapted to the mountains. The muleteer had to know how to feed, care for, and load them in a balanced manner. Mules, both strong and agile, could carry various goods: salt, wine, cereals, textiles… treasures from an era where every object had a story.

Mules on the Regordane The Regordane Way was more than just a path. It was surrounded by picturesque landscapes, with lush valleys and majestic mountains. That said, the route was also fraught with obstacles: steep slopes, narrow passages, sometimes peppered with unpleasant encounters. The muleteer had to remain vigilant, not only against natural dangers but also against thieves.

Traveling this route, they faced long and arduous days. Often, muleteers would set out at dawn, hoping to reach a stop before nightfall. Each village represented a stop to gather, exchange news, and sometimes negotiate prices. These places were crucial for commerce but also for social life, as muleteers forged strong bonds with the locals.

A life of mutual aid and solidarity

In this isolated region, the muleteer community was supportive. They helped each other with their journeys, shared meals around a fire, and told stories of their travels. Evenings were an opportunity to laugh, sing, and spend time together, far from the wandering paths. These moments were crucial in a life where isolation could weigh heavily.

Vivarais With the rise of railroads and modern roads in the 19th century, the role of muleteers gradually disappeared, leaving behind a rich legacy. Today, their stories resonate in the memories of former generations, and their courage is celebrated in local tales. The Regordane Way has become a popular hiking trail for nature and history lovers. By taking this path, hikers can still feel the spirit of the muleteers, those hardworking individuals always in search of new horizons.

The picture that Mazon provided us of the Muleteers highlights the picturesque nature of these characters. Let's listen to him:
"The muleteer always had his head adorned with a scarlet red woolen cap, a cap that he was accustomed to wearing in any respectable company, even in church. On this cap, a heavy and wide felt hat, with large brims turned down like a parasol during sunny, snowy, or rainy weather, and lifted in a bicorne style when facing the wind.This hat was sometimes adorned with a red cord with a tassel of the same color.

Muleteers wore their hair in a queue tied behind their backs and only reluctantly cut this venerable appendage at the very last extremity. During the Restoration, all without exception still wore it, and many had kept it after 1830.
They had, like the masters of the Rhône, their ears adorned with heavy gold rings, with the difference that an anchor hung from these rings in the case of the masters, and a mule shoe in the case of the muleteers.

Lozere The cravat was red, and the vest was also red; bright colors were preferred in the mountains. The jacket was that of the notable figures of the highlands, made of white cadis, with large copper buttons, quite roomy and cut as a sailor’s, presenting a remarkable similarity to the jacket of the Bretons.
The trousers, made of green cadis known as shop fabric, were short and tight. The gaiters, made from the same fabric but white, were long, richly buttoned and held at the knee by red garters adorned with a shiny buckle.
The shoes were of the Marlborough type, heavily nailed and each equipped with three leather earlets, serving as a footbed, to secure the gaiters.
A belt made of bright red wool encircled the waist in a double or triple fold. Never was a commissioner of the Convention or of the Commune of Paris more dramatically girded in red than the most humble of the Cevenol muleteers.

Over this outfit, muleteers, in times of rain, snow, or cold, wore the mountain coat commonly referred to as the cape or limousine.
It should be noted that this traditional costume, so colorful, was not the only one, but Mazon seems to have described a fairly common type, at least at the end of the glorious era of muleteers.

Mules Even more picturesque were the mules grouped in teams, the "coubles," which could sometimes exceed twenty-five heads. Each mule could carry wine in two wineskins, "boutes" if made of cowhide, "ouïres" if made of goat skin and with a capacity that could reach 70 to 80 liters each. Each animal was heavily and richly harnessed.

Let's listen to Mazon again:
"Three round copper plates, about 15 cm in diameter, adorned the upper part of the head. One was placed on the forehead and the two others on the temples, one to the right and the other to the left, all adorned with pompons of red wool fluttering in the gaps. These plates, called "glasses" in the vernacular and "phalerae" by antiquarians, produced a great effect, especially when the muleteer displayed under the rays of a blazing sun, it was then a true display of flashes and glimmers..." But the most beautiful ornament of the mule, at least the most visible, was the long and splendid red wool plume, a foot tall, that stood between the two ears of the animal and completed its theatrical decoration. These muleteers are all or almost all "padgels," people from the mountains.

Regordane The main places of origin of the muleteers: Luc, La Veyrune, La Bastide-Puylaurent, Les Huttes, St Laurent-les-Bains, La Garde-Guérin, Altier, Villefort, St Etienne-de-Lugdarès, Loubaresse, Petit-Paris (near Montselgues)...

The mule is a hybrid resulting from the crossing of a male donkey (a bardot) and a mare. It is known for its robustness, patience, and ability to work in difficult conditions. Mules have existed for thousands of years, and their domestication dates back to antiquity. They were particularly prized in ancient Egyptian and Roman civilizations. Thanks to their strength, endurance, and docile temperament, mules have been used as pack animals, serving to carry heavy loads over long distances, especially in mountainous regions and difficult terrains. In addition to their use as pack animals, mules have also been employed in agriculture to pull plows and carts.

Villefort Mules often have a robust body, strong limbs, and a head that mixes features of both the donkey and the mare. They generally have longer ears than horses but shorter than those of donkeys. Mules are known for their intelligence and self-preservation instincts. They are often more cautious and thoughtful than horses, which can be perceived as both stubbornness and wisdom. A notable aspect of mules is that they are generally sterile due to the chromosomal difference between donkeys and horses. This means that mules cannot reproduce. Mules are renowned for their endurance and capacity to carry heavy loads. They can work in extreme conditions without tiring as quickly as other working animals.

La Bastide-Puylaurent was founded in the Middle Ages, around the 13th century. Bastide communities often appeared as centers of trade and exchange, serving as meeting points for local populations. The municipality is located at a high altitude, on the road connecting the Massif Central to the neighboring valleys, which has favored trade. Its strategic location has made it a passageway for merchants and travelers.

Over the centuries, the economy of La Bastide-Puylaurent has relied on agriculture, livestock, and craftsmanship. The products from these activities, such as foodstuffs and textiles, were exchanged at local markets. The region is also known for its cheeses, notably goat cheese, which has found its place in local and regional trade. Fairs and markets played an essential role in the commercial history of the municipality. These events allowed farmers and artisans to sell their products, exchange goods, and strengthen social ties. In the 19th century, the growth of transport networks, particularly with the development of railroads, contributed to the dynamism of trade by facilitating the transportation of goods.

Former resort hotel with a garden on the banks of the Allier, L'Étoile Guesthouse is located in La Bastide-Puylaurent, nestled between Lozère, Ardèche, and the Cevennes in the mountains of Southern France. Positioned at the crossroads of GR®7, GR®70 Chemin Stevenson, GR®72, GR®700 Voie Regordane (Saint Gilles), GR®470 Sources and Gorges of the Allier, GRP® Cevenol, Montagne Ardechoise, and Margeride. It offers numerous loop routes for hiking and day-long cycling excursions. Ideal for a relaxing stay.