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Hike between Margeride and Gevaudan |
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Hike between Margeride and Gevaudan |
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Due to its railway location, La Bastide Puylaurent remains for us the well-placed starting and return point in the Northeast of Lozère at the border of Ardèche. A vacation spot on the banks of the Allier, 3km from the Abbey of Notre Dame des Neiges. At the crossroads of several GR trails: GR®70 Chemin Stevenson, GR®700 Voie Regordane, GR®7, and GR®72.
Direct train from Paris via Clermont-Ferrand and Marseille via Nîmes by the "Cevenol". From the town of La Bastide-Puylaurent, we will head south following the Arvernes route known as Voie Regordane or St Gilles' path, shared with GR®72.
On the way, we encounter Gargantua's Pallet, which he had thrown into the village of Thort. It is a dolmen table. Voie Regordane: "Reg" means river and "oudan" line, path. It took several centuries before the name Regordane was generalized for this path coming from Languedoc towards Auvergne.
The sky becomes more vast, the land as well, and the color purer. To the East, the peaks of Vivarais, to the west, the heights of Mont Lozère and the slopes of the Goulet. Land of gorse, bright yellow, and land of heather, mauve. Soon, one could see La Garde Guerin, its walls and its pointed tower in the middle of the desert...
La Garde Guerin, a small fortified village situated on the moor, stretched flat in the vastness. At the entrance of the medieval village, this simple cross facing the vast plateau welcomes the traveler.
In a text written in the 12th century, in Late Latin, one can read: "castrum quod vocatur la Garda", the stronghold called La Garde. It is not exactly known when "Guerin" was added to the name La Garde. It is generally thought that the lords who settled in La Garde around the 12th century were Guerin. "Guerin" is a common surname among the three baronies of Randon, Apcher, and Tournel.
The existence of the Guerin family is attested in a donation deed to the Abbey of Gellone, now Saint-Guilhem du Desert, dated 1054. It is a Guerin from Tournel who took charge of this castle and became its overlord. Tournel was indeed firmly established in Villefort and owned La Garde.
The Lords of Tournel were Masters of Mont Lozère and part of Sauveterre. They garrisoned in some crucial points and quickly focused their attention on this unique penetration route connecting the South to the Massif Central. The banks of the Rhône were never traversed, always a solidly guarded frontier.
The high square tower is the last vestige of the feudal castle overlooking the village and the Chassezac gorges. The Arvernes route and its edge in granite blocks are located at the foot of La Garde Guerin. Since the 11th century, La Garde Guerin appears as a strategic location where the "Parier" Knights, equal in rights and duties, shared the châtellerie and the benefits of toll rights on the ancient route, Voie Regordane.
In 1965, La Garde Guerin was an almost abandoned village, where a few farmers maintained with difficulty. However, there was a very rich architectural heritage to preserve. It was possible to restore this unique village, to recreate an economic and social living environment. Thanks to the Architecture Department in Paris, La Garde Guerin was selected as a pilot village and received significant subsidies.
The best image of La Garde Guerin is the one of the Roure castle. "Everything is so beautiful, on this unlimited heather, which embraces the blue mountains"... "castle of the soul or inner castle" in reference to the book of Saint Teresa of Avila.
The Roure castle is just a short flight away from La Garde Guerin, but it is separated by the jagged, deep, and very spectacular Chassezac Gorges in its winding course towards Ardèche.
Numerous loop walks, swimming, canyoning, climbing. A tributary of the Ardèche, the Chassezac runs through very deep granitic gorges (400 m) under the medieval village of La Garde-Guerin, in the Cevennes National Park, 35 km east of Mende and 40 km WSW of Aubenas.
Villefort, an important town since the Middle Ages. At the foot of Mont Lozère at 580m. above sea level in the narrow Deveze Valley. In the 17th century, Villefort was surrounded by ramparts, moats, and gates. One, Portalet to the North, the other, Cledon to the South towards the Cevennes.
The village was traversed by the Regordane path. It has preserved a district called "Castel-Vieil", old houses, windows from the 14th and 16th centuries, the St Jean bridge from the 14th century, traces of past times. The town is now very peaceful, a bit lifeless.
The old main street of Villefort with its characteristic houses of the architecture aptly called "regordanne". Although belonging to the Diocese of Uzès until the Revolution, Villefort's history was always intertwined with that of Gevaudan. Froidour, a great official of Colbert, came to inspect the Regordane path in 1668 and it can be read in the writings of the time that Villefort was at a crucial point between the cities of Alais and Langogne.
GR®68 from Villefort to Le Bleymard. This mule path allows reaching, from Villefort, the capital of Gevaudan, Mende. From the exit of Villefort, it enters Gevaudan. Sitting on the edge of Mont Lozère, it successively passes through Bergognon, Pomaret, and other hamlets before reaching Cubières.
Cubières has its confluence with the Altier, which originates at Mont Lozère at 1639m., describing numerous meanders before flowing into the Chassezac at 350m. above sea level. On the slopes of Mont Lozère, Cubières lives in the peace of its valleys.
The small heritage. An ironworker called "ferradou" in Occitan. Used to shoe oxen and cows. A pair of bovines accustomed to working together to transport wood or for various agricultural works was always shoeed. Witness of a less mechanized past.
At the foot of Mont Lozère thrive deciduous trees, elms, linden trees... The green Mediterranean oak was not as close to Mont Lozère as it is today.
The man clears the Cevennes at the Iron Age, a little later in our Mont Lozère. It is at the beginning of our era; he scatters these small Arverne bronzes on which scholars reconstruct the names or monograms of chiefs like Epaenactus...
In the Massif of Mont Lozère. An architecture linked to the roots of the soil, integrated into the striking sites of the silent hamlets.
Stone chimney stump, a slate hat placed on 4 or 6 posts topped with a heavy stone to resist the wind. Reflecting the old roofs that moss has gnawed. Bleymard settled in later times to command the entrance of his beautiful valley.
Le Bleymard, along the Combe Sourde stream. It is one of those places where the man who seeks and will seek more and more rest, calm, will find these simple joys that nature bestows upon him.
"From Bleymard, in the afternoon, although it was already late, I set out to assault a corner of Lozère. A rocky wagon path, poorly defined, guided my walk. I encountered at least half a dozen carts hitched to oxen descending from the woods, each loaded with a whole pine for winter heating." R.L. Stevenson
From Bleymard, a mining town with few traces remaining, one will climb via a trail in the Goulet Forest Massif to reach the hamlet of Bonnetès and the stage shelter of Nathalie "l'Escoutal".
"In front of me opened a shallow valley and, in the back, the chain of the Lozère mountains, partially wooded, with rather rugged slopes overall a dry and sad configuration. Barely any appearance of cultivation."
Yet, around Bleymard, the road from Villefort via Altier to Bagnols les Bains and Mende passed through a series of meadows planted with slender poplars and everywhere the sounds of sheep bells and herds. ...If the evening is beautiful and sweet, there is nothing better in life than strolling in front of the inn's door..." Robert Louis Stevenson.
In the surroundings of Belvezet, as far as the eye can see, there is a succession of chains, hills... "If you climb a hill, it is only to see new lines of more distant peaks. ...And now, you must wonder if, when all is done, you wouldn't rather sit at home by the fire and be happy thinking..." R.L. Stevenson
The journey ends at the Belvezet station and its railway line that connects Mende to La Bastide-Puylaurent via Allenc, Belvezet, and Chasseradès. The line is often used by snow plows in winter, tunnels had to be built for protection. It is an excellent low-cost, very pleasant, and unique means of transport in France. You can also take the train with your bike. For the stop, you must signal its presence on the platform with a big wave. by Mr. Pasquier
Former resort hotel with a garden on the banks of the Allier, L'Étoile Guesthouse is located in La Bastide-Puylaurent, nestled between Lozère, Ardèche, and the Cevennes in the mountains of Southern France. Positioned at the crossroads of GR®7, GR®70 Chemin Stevenson, GR®72, GR®700 Voie Regordane (Saint Gilles), GR®470 Sources and Gorges of the Allier, GRP® Cevenol, Montagne Ardechoise, and Margeride. It offers numerous loop routes for hiking and day-long cycling excursions. Ideal for a relaxing stay.
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